Journal

Men's Leather Flight Jacket: A-2, G-1 or B-3, Which to Choose and How to Wear It

From the 1931 A-2 to the US Navy G-1, by way of the sheepskin B-3 and the nylon MA-1: the history, the differences, how to choose and how to wear a leather flight jacket, with the Museum Garments Flight Jacket.

Blouson aviateur Museum Garments Flight Jacket en cuir de vachette noir, col en peau lainée, packshot

The leather flight jacket was born in the cockpits of the 1930s before becoming one of the most copied jackets in menswear. The name covers several distinct models: the A-2 of the US Army Air Corps, the US Navy's G-1, the sheepskin B-3 worn by bomber crews, and the nylon MA-1 that followed them. This guide explains what sets them apart, how to choose a flight jacket and how to wear it, with the Museum Garments Flight Jacket, based on the G-1.

Museum Garments Flight Jacket in black cowhide leather with shearling collar, packshot

What is a flight jacket?

A flight jacket is a short jacket that stops at the waist, closes with a zip and has ribbed cuffs and a ribbed waistband to keep the wind out. Its length was not a style choice at first: a pilot sitting in a cramped cockpit cannot wear a long coat. Depending on the model, it is made of smooth leather, sheepskin or, later, nylon. It is also called a bomber jacket, a term now mostly used for the nylon version.

A-2, G-1, B-3, MA-1: the four models to know

The A-2, the US Army Air Corps jacket (1931)

The A-2 was adopted by the US Army Air Corps on 9 May 1931. It was originally cut in horsehide, then in goatskin during the war. It is recognised by its leather shirt collar, with no fur, its epaulettes, its flap pockets and its knitted rib cuffs and waistband. Second World War crews customised it with squadron patches and painted backs. Replaced in 1943, it was reintroduced by the US Air Force in the late 1980s.

The G-1, the US Navy jacket (1940)

The G-1 descends from a US Navy specification dated 28 March 1940, the M-422. It is made of goatskin, with a mouton fur collar that turns up to protect the neck and a bi-swing back that gives the arms room to move. Still worn today by US Navy and Marine Corps aviators, it became famous in 1986 with the film Top Gun.

The B-3, the bomber crews' sheepskin

The B-3 is the sheepskin jacket of American military aviation. According to the National WWII Museum, it came into service around 1934, designed for open-cockpit and high-altitude flying, and became the favourite of bomber crews during the Second World War. The wool faces inwards, with a large shearling collar. It is often the jacket people picture when they say "aviator jacket". Bulkier and far warmer, it is mainly for very cold weather.

The MA-1, the nylon bomber (1950s)

The MA-1 was developed for the US Air Force in the 1950s, in the jet age. It replaced leather with nylon, lighter and less affected by moisture, with a bright orange lining and a zipped sleeve pocket. It is the bomber that fashion has borrowed most.

ModelOriginMaterialCollarKey feature
A-2US Army Air Corps, 1931Horsehide, then goatskinLeather shirt collarEpaulettes, flap pockets
G-1US Navy, 1940GoatskinMouton furBi-swing back
B-3US military aviation, around 1934SheepskinLarge shearling collarThe warmest and bulkiest
MA-1US Air Force, 1950sNylonRibbed knit collarOrange lining, sleeve pocket

Sources: Wikipedia (A-2, G-1 and MA-1 articles), National WWII Museum, Gentleman's Gazette. Dates are those of the military specifications.

The Museum Garments Flight Jacket

The Museum Garments Flight Jacket is based on the US Navy G-1. It is made of smooth black cowhide, with leather and tannery from Turkey, made in Turkey and lined in acetate. It keeps the codes of the military model: a black shearling collar, removable here, double-entry patch pockets with hidden snap flaps, stitched ribbed-leather cuffs and waistband, and an aged brass YKK zip. The fit is regular and the jacket stays short: 57.5 cm long in a M according to the brand's size chart.

The removable collar changes the look: with the shearling, it is a proper winter jacket; without it, it becomes a clean leather jacket, easier to wear in spring and autumn. For the brand's story and its other pieces, see our Museum Garments guide.

Museum Garments Flight Jacket without its removable shearling collar, packshotBack of the Museum Garments Flight Jacket in black leather, packshotClose-up of the patch pocket and ribbed leather waistband on the Museum Garments Flight Jacket

Museum Garments also makes an A-2 Military Jacket, but in 395 g/m² compact cotton sateen rather than leather: the brand keeps the A-2's silhouette, its zip and button closure and its ribbed cuffs, in a lighter version made in Lithuania.

Museum Garments A-2 Military Jacket in dark green cotton sateen, packshot

Other flight jackets in our selection

The Onyx flight jacket from the Walk in Paris x Schott NYC collaboration is made of satin-lined cowhide, with a detachable sheepskin collar, ribbed cuffs and waistband, and action pleats at the back, two G-1 codes. For the story of the collaboration, see our Walk in Paris article.

In canvas, Pop Trading Company takes the bomber silhouette with its Flight Jacket in thyme cotton canvas and its hooded version, the Hooded Flight Jacket in black: metal YKK zip, a zipped sleeve pocket as on the MA-1, and polyester padding. More in our Pop Trading Company article.

Walk in Paris x Schott NYC Onyx flight jacket in black cowhide with sheepskin collarBack of the Walk in Paris x Schott NYC Onyx flight jacket in black leatherPop Trading Company Flight Jacket in thyme green cotton canvas, worn

How to choose a leather flight jacket

  • The model for the use. A G-1 or an A-2 works from autumn to spring; a sheepskin B-3 is for very cold weather; a nylon MA-1 is the lightest.
  • The leather. Horsehide and goatskin are the historic leathers of the military models. Smooth cowhide, as on the Flight Jacket, gives a clean, even finish. In every case, leather develops a patina and creases over the years: that is what you are buying.
  • The length. A flight jacket should stop at the waist. Any longer and it loses its silhouette.
  • The size. It should let you wear a jumper underneath without pulling at the shoulders when you raise your arms. Museum Garments advises taking your usual size on the Flight Jacket.
SizeWidth laid flatLength
S58.5 cm57 cm
M60.5 cm57.5 cm
L62.5 cm58 cm
XL64.5 cm58.5 cm

Official Museum Garments Flight Jacket size chart, garment measured laid flat. Compare the width with a jacket you like, laid flat the same way. For care, the brand recommends cleaning by a leather specialist only.

How to wear a flight jacket

A flight jacket is short, so it works with trousers that come up to the waist. Gentleman's Gazette notes that the A-2, short by today's standards, was designed for the high-waisted trousers of its time. A few simple pairings:

All our jackets and coats are in the jackets and coats category.

Flight jacket: the details

Definition: a short zipped jacket with ribbed cuffs and waistband, born in 1930s military aviation.

Models: A-2 (US Army Air Corps, 1931), G-1 (US Navy, 1940), B-3 (sheepskin), MA-1 (nylon, 1950s).

Museum Garments Flight Jacket: smooth black cowhide, removable shearling collar, based on the G-1, made in Turkey.

Sizing: usual size according to Museum Garments; 57.5 cm long in a M.

Shop the flight jacket at AURA

The Museum Garments Flight Jacket and our other flight jackets are available in our Rennes store, at 2 rue Châteaurenault, and online with delivery across France and Europe. A leather jacket is best tried on: in store, you can compare the fits and wear the collar with or without the shearling.

Shop the full Museum Garments selection →

Flight jacket: frequently asked questions

What is the difference between an A-2 and a G-1?

The A-2 is the US Army Air Corps jacket (1931), in horsehide then goatskin, with a leather shirt collar and epaulettes. The G-1 is the US Navy jacket (1940), in goatskin, with a mouton fur collar and a bi-swing back.

Is a flight jacket the same as a bomber jacket?

Not quite. Today, bomber mostly means the nylon MA-1. A leather flight jacket usually means the A-2, the G-1 or the sheepskin B-3.

How should a flight jacket fit?

It should stop at the waist and leave room for a jumper underneath without pulling at the shoulders. For the Flight Jacket, Museum Garments advises your usual size.

Is the Museum Garments Flight Jacket collar removable?

Yes. The black shearling collar can be removed, so the jacket works in winter as well as in spring and autumn.

How do I care for a leather jacket?

Hang it on a wide hanger, away from direct heat, and let it dry naturally if it gets wet. For cleaning, Museum Garments recommends a leather specialist only.

Where can I buy a leather flight jacket in Rennes?

At AURA, in store at 2 rue Châteaurenault and online at aura-estore.com, with delivery across France and Europe.

AURA SELECTION

Shop the story

Keep reading